Day 7 - Alcudia to Puig Randa
by Will Wattles

This morning, as I started to load the panniers onto my Montague MX folding mountain bike, I noticed that a critical bolt on the rear carry rack was missing. I limped down the road with the rack rubbing on the tire and stopped at a hardware store where an energetic young woman found me just the thing and, for 20 cents, I was on my way. Thank goodness it wasn't Sunday! That didn't solve all my problems because the streets were wet and the chance of rain had gone from 20% to 60% overnight.

I pedaled the Montague MX along the coast past the hundreds of empty hotel rooms in Port D'Alcudia. At Las Gaviotas, I took a right and headed to Sa Pobla. Locals call this the Marsh Road because it runs along the Albufera Nature Area, a huge wetlands sanctuary for birds and other wildlife. I saw some birds, none that I could identify, and came to the entrance open only to pedestrians and bikes. Sadly, the black clouds looming overhead made stopping a poor option.

In Sa Pobla, I saw an old windmill with a new top portion. I had seen many from the plane and was to see dozens today. Nearly all are falling apart and those that aren't usually house a restaurant. My folding bike was loaded with camera and binoculars in the front pack, clothes and books in the panniers, and a backpack wrapped in a waterproof bag on the top. The latter is nice for hiking, walking around town and carrying on the plane.

The road continued flat until I hit the little town of Muro, which involved a modest climb. The rest of the day the road rose and fell modestly, putting to rest the idea that the center of the island is flat. I passed by farms and fields in a wonderful peaceful bike ride with little traffic. Armed with just a road map, I could only guess if a given road would be pleasant. I passed fields of artichokes and potatoes.

An old fashioned windmill and the local parish church signaled my arrival in Sineu, an inviting town right in the very center of the island. I took a chance with the rain and stopped for a cup of coffee and a break after 20 miles. The restaurant had signs welcoming cyclists hanging on the wall and a few people sitting at tables outside. Although the streets had been wet my entire ride and dark clouds were all around, somehow, I avoided the rain.

On my way out of town, I asked directions from a man who had walked by without looking at me. As soon as I did, he smiled and took time to tell me two different routes, recommending the back roads though Lloret and Pina. Once again the route was ideal - rolling valleys and little farms with few vehicles.

I came around a corner and saw my destination looming in the distance - a flat topped mountain named Randa. I didn't exactly realize that the modestly priced room I had found beforehand would commit me to such a steep climb at the end of my ride. No doubt I could do it. Right?

At Eroski's, a super market in Algaida, I stopped for some apples and juice. The old man checking out in front of me pretended to steal my food. He later said something in German I think because he thought I was German. The island is a prime destination for Germans. When I landed, all the gangways and almost all the planes advertised Air Berlin.

The skies threatened more than ever as I pushed on (still dry). I made it to Randa, a tiny town tucked into the bottom of Puig Randa (Mt. Randa). The 5 kilometer climb kept me warm and offered wonderful views as the road ran around the mountain. The top is 542 meters (1,778 feet) and home to the Santuari de Cura or Hermitage of Cura. A reformed womanizer named Ramon Llull (now a revered figure) founded this former monastery in the thirteenth century. The buildings have changed much over the years but have a grand flavor to them.

I checked into my room. I figured out how to open the two sets of shutters and get a view looking back from where I had come. I could see Algaida but the clouds were low and the view marginal. I hoped it would clear for the view before dark but instead the rain came. Given that the rain held throughout my ride, I couldn't complain about the timing.

When I checked in, I asked the young man if the restaurant was open and he said no but that breakfast would be provided at 9 a.m. I had a small stash of food but had gambled on the restaurant. As the young man left after showing me to my room he mentioned that the bar was open until 4 and that I could get tapas (a snack.) So I went down to check it out. Well, I got a menu of the day with a fabulous fish soup, a fish main course, bread, olives, sparkling water, tea and desert for 15 euros. I was the only one there and the waiter treated me very well. There is a real feeling to this place that makes it a wonderful lodging.

Mileage for the day: 38
Total trip miles: 193

Mallorca Bike Tour By Montague MX

More about Will Wattles... Will truly enjoys bicycle touring. Over the last decade, he's toured places such as Greece, Costa Rica, Malta, Chile and Venezuela. For more stories and photos from Will's previous bike trips, visit WillBike.com.

Labels: Mallorca, Montague-MX