Day 8 Puig Randa to Palma
by Will Wattles

I awoke in my sparse, cold cell in the monastery and immediately looked outside. Thick fog hid everything. I could have been a sea level rather than looking out over a sheer drop of some 500 meters. I walked around outside for a few minutes before breakfast at nine. I noticed a couple had arrived on bikes after me.

The same waiter served me lots of food and two cups of coffee to get me started. Lest I give a false impression: the room had a bath with hot water and was brand new from head to toe. With only two narrow beds, minimal wood furniture and no decorations it had a wonderful Spartan feel. The food was great; so this is not really roughing it but, you can pretend.

I bundled up and started down the hill on my pannier laden Montague MX. I went only a kilometer or so before stopping at the Sant Honorat monastery. The fog turned out to be clouds and I could already see countryside from this spot.

After another kilometer, I stopped at the Santuari de Gracia, the third hermitage on Puig Randa. It sits dramatically on a ledge cut into the cliff and directly under Sant Honrat. I pedaled to the sanctuary's entrance where a man was opening the gate. I asked him if I could go down to Lluc Major using the left hand road leaving the hermitage. He firmly said no and, as I asked, I noticed the do not enter symbol on a sign so I didn't push the issue. It had looked on my map like this was an alternative way to exit Puig Randa and I always prefer not to back track.

Just as I was leaving, I noticed that the sign also said excepto autorizado y bicicletas. So I weighed the sign against the man and chose the former. It was a delightful road apparently almost unused. It's switchbacks were much tighter than those on the main road, making the ride down even more fun. Soon I rolled out into the countryside and to the town of Lluc Major.

Lluc Major is very photogenic so I took a few pictures and bought some apples at an inviting little shop. They had a map in the main plaza that allowed me to find my way to the back road indicated on the cicloturismo map I had picked up in Santa Ponca. I crossed a major highway and looked back from the bridge for a nice look at Lluc Major and Puig Randa, in the clouds.

Once on the bike route I found a cicloturismo kiosk with a map and followed the familiar wooden bicycle signs all the way to Palma. The first ten miles or so couldn't have been nicer biking. There were no cars and lots of what I call “share the road signs” indicating a speed limit of 40 kph which is only about 25 mph. Smooth pavement on flat roads through farm and ranchland with rarely a house and not even utility poles took me all the way to the coast road.

Several groups of bicycle racers passed me including one group with the coach close behind on a motorcycle. I passed a striking church and windmill but didn't determine what it was called. When we finally ended on the relatively busy road it had a nice marked off shoulder. I followed that for five miles or so and at Cala Blava was able to get on separate bike trails for the last 15 miles to Palma.

I pedaled the Montague folding bike through Arenal and by dozens of resort areas packed with hotels, restaurants and the like. It was warm enough now for the outdoor tables to be full and lots of walkers and bikers out giving the afternoon a festive feeling.

I checked into my room at the Hostal Terminus in the heart of Palma and between the two train stations. I noticed that it costs 21 euros a day to rent a mountain bike from the hotel. At that rate, I'd pay for my Montague MX folding mountain bike pretty quickly.

At lunch I chatted with a woman from Peru who lives in London and came here on vacation. She seemed quite envious of my having a bike. I also went to the train station just in case bad weather hits Monday when I have to travel back to Pollenca. A delightful young woman said there was no charge to take a bike on the train and the schedule had little bicycles next to the trains (75% during the week and 100% on weekends) that can carry them. Each hotel has been quite accommodating of my full size folding bike so this really is a bicycle-friendly island.

Mileage for the day: 50
Total trip miles: 243

Mallorca Mountain Bike Tour - Palma

More about Will Wattles... Will truly enjoys bicycle touring. Over the last decade, he's toured places such as Greece, Costa Rica, Malta, Chile and Venezuela. For more stories and photos from Will's previous bike trips, visit WillBike.com.

Labels: Mallorca, Montague-MX

Day 7 - Alcudia to Puig Randa
by Will Wattles

This morning, as I started to load the panniers onto my Montague MX folding mountain bike, I noticed that a critical bolt on the rear carry rack was missing. I limped down the road with the rack rubbing on the tire and stopped at a hardware store where an energetic young woman found me just the thing and, for 20 cents, I was on my way. Thank goodness it wasn't Sunday! That didn't solve all my problems because the streets were wet and the chance of rain had gone from 20% to 60% overnight.

I pedaled the Montague MX along the coast past the hundreds of empty hotel rooms in Port D'Alcudia. At Las Gaviotas, I took a right and headed to Sa Pobla. Locals call this the Marsh Road because it runs along the Albufera Nature Area, a huge wetlands sanctuary for birds and other wildlife. I saw some birds, none that I could identify, and came to the entrance open only to pedestrians and bikes. Sadly, the black clouds looming overhead made stopping a poor option.

In Sa Pobla, I saw an old windmill with a new top portion. I had seen many from the plane and was to see dozens today. Nearly all are falling apart and those that aren't usually house a restaurant. My folding bike was loaded with camera and binoculars in the front pack, clothes and books in the panniers, and a backpack wrapped in a waterproof bag on the top. The latter is nice for hiking, walking around town and carrying on the plane.

The road continued flat until I hit the little town of Muro, which involved a modest climb. The rest of the day the road rose and fell modestly, putting to rest the idea that the center of the island is flat. I passed by farms and fields in a wonderful peaceful bike ride with little traffic. Armed with just a road map, I could only guess if a given road would be pleasant. I passed fields of artichokes and potatoes.

An old fashioned windmill and the local parish church signaled my arrival in Sineu, an inviting town right in the very center of the island. I took a chance with the rain and stopped for a cup of coffee and a break after 20 miles. The restaurant had signs welcoming cyclists hanging on the wall and a few people sitting at tables outside. Although the streets had been wet my entire ride and dark clouds were all around, somehow, I avoided the rain.

On my way out of town, I asked directions from a man who had walked by without looking at me. As soon as I did, he smiled and took time to tell me two different routes, recommending the back roads though Lloret and Pina. Once again the route was ideal - rolling valleys and little farms with few vehicles.

I came around a corner and saw my destination looming in the distance - a flat topped mountain named Randa. I didn't exactly realize that the modestly priced room I had found beforehand would commit me to such a steep climb at the end of my ride. No doubt I could do it. Right?

At Eroski's, a super market in Algaida, I stopped for some apples and juice. The old man checking out in front of me pretended to steal my food. He later said something in German I think because he thought I was German. The island is a prime destination for Germans. When I landed, all the gangways and almost all the planes advertised Air Berlin.

The skies threatened more than ever as I pushed on (still dry). I made it to Randa, a tiny town tucked into the bottom of Puig Randa (Mt. Randa). The 5 kilometer climb kept me warm and offered wonderful views as the road ran around the mountain. The top is 542 meters (1,778 feet) and home to the Santuari de Cura or Hermitage of Cura. A reformed womanizer named Ramon Llull (now a revered figure) founded this former monastery in the thirteenth century. The buildings have changed much over the years but have a grand flavor to them.

I checked into my room. I figured out how to open the two sets of shutters and get a view looking back from where I had come. I could see Algaida but the clouds were low and the view marginal. I hoped it would clear for the view before dark but instead the rain came. Given that the rain held throughout my ride, I couldn't complain about the timing.

When I checked in, I asked the young man if the restaurant was open and he said no but that breakfast would be provided at 9 a.m. I had a small stash of food but had gambled on the restaurant. As the young man left after showing me to my room he mentioned that the bar was open until 4 and that I could get tapas (a snack.) So I went down to check it out. Well, I got a menu of the day with a fabulous fish soup, a fish main course, bread, olives, sparkling water, tea and desert for 15 euros. I was the only one there and the waiter treated me very well. There is a real feeling to this place that makes it a wonderful lodging.

Mileage for the day: 38
Total trip miles: 193

Mallorca Bike Tour By Montague MX

More about Will Wattles... Will truly enjoys bicycle touring. Over the last decade, he's toured places such as Greece, Costa Rica, Malta, Chile and Venezuela. For more stories and photos from Will's previous bike trips, visit WillBike.com.

Labels: Mallorca, Montague-MX

Day 6 - Hiking the Alcudia Peninsula
by Will Wattles

Once again the first thing I heard this morning was a street sweeper; Mallorca might be the cleanest place I've ever been. Spend a couple of minutes locking your bike to a trash can and you'll be approached by many people.

The day began a little warmer, near 60 for the high. However the sky and the forecast were totally covered with clouds and today called for winds of 20-30 mph. So I decided to go hiking. I hoped that most of my hiking would be on the west side of the mountain while the wind was from the east-southeast. I biked by the Bonaire marina and part-way back on the winding up and down roads I was on yesterday and then took a turn up a steeper road that led to a religious icon and a closed restaurant. There I hid my bike among pine trees and palmettos and started hiking.

The whole peninsular, except for the military base on the point, is undeveloped and covered with mountains and views. My guidebook cautioned hiking without a good map but, I had no problem and encountered signs when I needed them. I first hiked to Sa Penya Roja at 345 meters. The trail started in the trees but soon took me along a steep cliff with low shrubs and grasses apparently resistant to goats. Mostly sheltered from the wind I enjoyed pleasant hiking conditions and great views all the way. I saw no one on the way up. I found a shallow cave in the rocky, red crag.

On the way down I passed a couple and, as I headed for the second peak Talaia d'Alcudia, I passed a few adolescents. Other than that it was goats and horses. The latter appeared after I climbed a stile over a barbed wire fence. Some grazed on the rocky hillside but one group of four were eating from a bale of hay. I tried to get them to look at me for a picture but they seemed much more interested in the hay.

The hike up the tallest (445 meters) of the peaks took me into the open on very rough ground. At one point I wound around to the east side of the peak and the wind made hiking more of challenge. Despite the gray weather I enjoyed a fabulous view with the peaks of the Alcudia peninsular to the north, Port de Pollenca and its mountainous peninsular to the west, Alcudia, the Bonaire boat basin and more mountains to the south. To the east I got my first look at the Port d'Alcudia, one of the most developed beaches on the island. The wind ensured my stay on the top was brief and I hiked down wishing I could take all the other trails too.

However, it was time for lunch so I pedaled to Port d'Alcudia. On a gray, blustery day in the middle of winter it looked like a beauty pageant contestant home alone. Hundreds of tables waited for people to come eat and the pedestrian areas seemed lonesome. It appears to be a pretty nice place for a very commercialized beach resort. I found a delightful Italian Restaurant where I got Quattro Estaciones which means four seasons and is a pizza with four different toppings. That's an Italian thing but common here as well. The waitress was intrigued with my hike and assured me she would have been tired before reaching the icon.

After lunch I pedaled around Alcudia and was surprised to see that it was possible to lean my bike against a wall and walk on sections of the crenelated wall that surround the old city. They have many restrictions on cars but, I seem to go anywhere by bike. Other than my initial bus ride from the airport all my travel has been by foot or bike. I get satisfaction out of seeing a mountain in the distance, pedaling to it, hiking to the top and pedaling back. Sometimes my view is smaller because I cover less ground but I think I see more.

Mileage for the day: 13
Total trip miles: 155

Cycling A Folding Bike Across Mallorca

More about Will Wattles... Will truly enjoys bicycle touring. Over the last decade, he's toured places such as Greece, Costa Rica, Malta, Chile and Venezuela. For more stories and photos from Will's previous bike trips, visit WillBike.com.

Labels: Mallorca, Montague-MX

Day 5 - Alcudia to Port de Pollenca & Back
by Will Wattles

Day five started with a weird effort at a British breakfast. I got a fried tomato, undercooked egg, baked beans, sausage, bacon and toast along with coffee for 5 euros. I then rode out along the Alcudia peninsular.

Alcudia Peninsular
On the map it looks flat but, steep mountains fill the space and a road running along the west side goes up and down and around with great drop-offs to the surf below. The road of narrow, but smooth tarmac runs through a pine forest and has constant views of the mountains inland and on the Pollenca peninsular directly across the bay.

Feral Goats
Once, I stopped for a picture and heard a noise. I turned and saw a kid staring at me. Before I could get a good picture he and his mother climbed up the sheer slope. The feral goats became common and their acrobatics entertained me.

Zona Militar & Yachts
At points I could see portions of the road several kilometers ahead in the form of graceful curves ascending and descending the terrain. I rode until signs told me I was entering a forbidden military area. I always stop for signs like that. Returning on the peninsular road I passed through Bonair where boats were moored that called Hamburg and London home.

Montague Folding Bike Scores Again
At one point I encountered a sign indicating that the road was a dead end. I continued on and found a path that led through some bushes and along an exposed headland, rough with volcanic rock but rideable. I followed it to a dirt trail through some woods to a neighborhood and then took a makeshift road along the waterfront to get to the road I wanted. Score one for the folding mountain bike.

Pollenca - From Bay To Port
I then took the highway with its paved shoulders along the Bay of Pollenca to the Port de Pollenca. The bay is outstanding with aqua water and bordered by two mountainous peninsulas. The shoulder next to the coast was painted red with pictures of bicycles on it and signs indicating a bike route.

Pollenca Market
When I got to town I passed several bicycle parking areas. It's nice to feel welcomed. I came upon a thriving market set up in the plaza in the center of town. I bought some apples to fuel up for the ride back and sat on a bench in the shade watching the people buy, sell and go about their daily routines.

Mileage for the day: 23
Total trip miles: 142

Bike & Hike In Mallorca

More about Will Wattles... Will truly enjoys bicycle touring. Over the last decade, he's toured places such as Greece, Costa Rica, Malta, Chile and Venezuela. For more stories and photos from Will's previous bike trips, visit WillBike.com.

Labels: Mallorca, Montague-MX

Day 4 - From Alaro to Alcudia
by Will Wattles

Sunshine ruled the morning as I left Alaro, headed northeast and found wonderful cycling roads. I got a great view of the molars as I rode by and it was fun to think I had been all the way to the top just yesterday. I stopped to take off some clothes after a while and a couple of older men (probably my age) passed me on very expensive road bikes and wearing official road bike gear including tights. They returned my wave but generally ignored me. That seems to be the way most people here react to me. They are very willing to help when I ask directions but generally ignore me. No one has been rude, not even a motorist. Surprisingly, I later passed the cyclists in my baggy clothes and heavily loaded panniers.

The road had some gentle hills and lots of flat. Most of the time it was a narrow two-lane road with no shoulder and no need for one because cars were rare. Sometimes it became a lane and a half or less. At times it was barely possible to pass a car coming the other way. It made me glad I wasn't in a car. At one point I was riding along a place with a sheer drop off, it wasn't far maybe 6 or 8 feet but there was absolutely no protection. A vehicle passed me from behind and it was a weird feeling: I couldn't get too close the edge but, I had to move over enough for the car to get by.

I saw and heard lots of sheep and their bells. Many of them had red stuff on their back I assume it is like a flea powder or something. I saw several of them rubbing on trees as if the powder woke up the fleas. With the bright sun and endless row of mountains, the world felt expansive. I passed through fertile valleys full of olive, almond, carob and orange trees.

Helpful signs led me through towns including Lloseta, Binimar, Selva (shining in the sun on a hill side), Campanet and Pollenca. At Pollenca I tried to enter the Piccolo Horno (little oven) at 12:35 but they weren't open yet. I went back at 1 and was the first customer but by the time I finished the place was packed. I was relieved to see a no smoking sign but soon noticed a young woman smoking. I had the menu of the day for 12 euros which included a big salad with tuna, spaghetti, desert, bottled water and wine (they let me substitute tea). That was a pretty reasonable dinner. Too bad the exchange rate is about $1.50 per euro now.

Rain threatened as I pedaled the six miles to Alcudia. I found myself a little less cocky about the rain after Sunday. I rolled into the walled city where cars are limited and bikes welcome. I found my way through the Porta del Moll Gate to the bar-restaurant-hostal Llabres where I had tried to make an internet reservation but received no confirmation. They had rooms and I got a pretty little, newly-remodeled room with bath and heat for 36 euros a night. I had a window looking out at Constitution Plaza full of tables and chairs from the restaurants that circle the square. I checked out restaurants for wi-fi and then found it in my room.

Mileage for the day: 31
Total trip miles: 119

Day 5 - Alcudia to Port de Pollenca & Back

More about Will Wattles... Will truly enjoys bicycle touring. Over the last decade, he's toured places such as Greece, Costa Rica, Malta, Chile and Venezuela. For more stories and photos from Will's previous bike trips, visit WillBike.com.

Labels: Mallorca, Montague-MX

Day 3 - Bike & Hike to Castell d' Alaro
by Will Wattles

While warming up at Cafe Alaro, the barista told me about a great place to hike. After another coffee and bocadillo (sandwich) at the cafe, I returned to my room, put on a lot of clothes (to ward off the near freezing chill) and took off on my bike.

I biked the main road (almost two lanes wide but with cars parked along most of it and two-way traffic) toward Inca and soon saw two steep peaks, locally called the molars, to my left. I took a left and started up a narrow paved road toward the Es Verger restaurant high on the side of a steep hill and the Castell d' Alaro on the top of one of the molars. The road immediately began to climb and to wind back and forth in a tortuous series of switchbacks. It hardly seemed possible that a road could climb such a steep incline. Olive trees grew on both sides and black olives and a type of acorn lay in abundance on the surface. Paved for a while it soon gave way to pot holes and patches of cement that looked like they were put down by someone with an attitude. Each switchback gave me a new view of the valley as it rapidly fell below me.

It took nearly an hour to pedal the 3 miles to the restaurant which turned out to be a sheep farm as well. I left my bike in the parking area and proceeded to hike a steeper switchback dodging sheep droppings on the trail and watching birds. Soon the restaurant was far below me and I pushed on for nearly an hour before arriving at the ruins of the fort, once a Moorish stronghold. Little remains of the battlements that played a big role in slowing the 1285 invasion by king Alfonso III of Aragon.

On the way up I had shed layer after layer of clothes and was still hot from the exertion. At the top I immediately began to cool off. Snow covered the ground and the air had a refreshing but cold bite to it. In the distance I could see Puig Major, the highest point on the massive mountain range to the west. A young hiker talked about how lucky we were to have the snow to make it all so magic. I agreed but was happy for all those layers I had removed and could now put back on. I enjoyed that descent through the trees as much as I had the climb. I hated to leave but it was cold and I had only a snack. It’s hard to imagine anything on my trip that could match this magical hike/bike outing.

Mileage for the day: 7
Total trip miles: 88

Day 4 - From Alaro to Alcudia

More about Will Wattles... Will truly enjoys bicycle touring. Over the last decade, he's toured places such as Greece, Costa Rica, Malta, Chile and Venezuela. For more stories and photos from Will's previous bike trips, visit WillBike.com.

Labels: Mallorca, Montague-MX

Mallorca Bike Tour - Day 2
by Will Wattles

The next day I headed off into the hinterlands. I started with coffee at Chantilly where I had a great little window seat and free wi-fi. I had to ride a pretty busy street to make my way out of the city. Cars were okay and I found enough signs to find C713. It is known as the old road as a motorway now parallels it which helps reduce the traffic.

I had no problems riding and was impressed when one car made a special effort to help me through a traffic circle. A bright sun soon displaced the few drops of rain falling as I left. Impressive mountains of the Serra de Tramuntana range reflected the light to my left as I climbed a gentle grade. I came though Santa Maria and thought to stop for lunch. I decided to continue on to Consell figuring I would make it before the black clouds ahead replaced the sun. I was wrong.

The head wind I had been riding into began to blow so hard I felt as if I weren't moving and rain started light and became heavy. Suddenly dark, wet, cold and wind engulfed me. As I pedaled through Consell I saw nothing open and watched as people at a flea market tried to fold tarps in the blustery weather. Already soaked I decided to push on to my destination the foothills village of Alaro.

I rolled into town and found a cafe where I got coffee and a sandwich in a modestly warm environment at the Cafe Alaro. After my repast I tried to get into my hotel, The C'an Tiu Ecological Hostal.

As when I arrived at the Hostal Brondo in Palma no one was there and I had to phone. This time I got no answer. It later turned out the proprietor's cell phone battery died. Several other wet cyclists stopped and knocked on the door. They didn't have reservations as I did and continued on to who knows where.

The sun came back out and to warm up I pedaled up a street unto the side of the mountain. The road soon turned very rough and I found myself in the country. Eventually I reached a gate and turned around to see a great view of the cluster of red-roofed masonry buildings that was Alaro.

Continuing up another narrow track consisting first of pavement and then of rocks set in sloppy concrete, I passed olive trees and terraced gardens. Eventually I reached the ebullient owner of the hotel and got into my room and dry clothes. I had a big meal at a very pleasant Italian restaurant called. O Sole Mio. I tucked into bed with two blankets and thought how a week ago being able to lie down and be warm were things I took for granted.

Mileage for the day: 22
Total trip miles: 81

Day 3 - Bike & Hike to Castell d' Alaro

More about Will Wattles... Will truly enjoys bicycle touring. Over the last decade, he's toured places such as Greece, Costa Rica, Malta, Chile and Venezuela. For more stories and photos from Will's previous bike trips, visit WillBike.com.

Labels: bike-tour, Mallorca, Montague-MX

Mallorca.

If you're originally from the UK or Germany, chances are that either you or someone you know has vacationed on this idyllic Mediterranean isle off the coast of Spain. In fact, over 20 million tourists visited there last year; however, only a small number were Americans. What do the Europeans know that we don't? You're about to find out.

Several days ago, Will Wattles (a psychology professor from Francis Marion University with a deep love for bicycling) wrote that he would be spending his semester break touring Mallorca via the Montague MX full size folding mountain bike that he had purchased in September on RideTHISbike.com. Will offered to share highlights of his solo, unassisted bike tour as well as comments on the performance of the bike. Following is his first entry.

Mallorca Via Folding Mountain Bike
by Will Wattles

Settling In
I packed my Montague folding mountain bike in the original box. My bike and bag were lost so I took a city bus to Palma de Mallorca the main city on the island. The bike arrived late the next day late and, the box and bike were in fine condition. The airline delivered it to my hotel, Hostal Borondo, in the old city. Borondo is a narrow pedestrian alley off Born Avenue. I paid 35 euros a night for a tiny room with a shared bath in a great location. I was so excited when the bike came that I put it together and took off for a ride even though it was well after dark.

I pedaled down Born Avenue (not its exact name the streets have Catalan names that are too hard for me to remember.) about half a mile to the waterfront where I got on the bike route that runs along the shore. I pedaled along with my lights flashing under the moonlight with the Mediterranean on my right and passing an occasional jogger or cyclist.

The First Full Day
The next morning I took off to the west on the same path with palm trees and fancy hotels on my right and a marina full of million-dollar yachts on my left. The bike lane ended and I took to the road. Driving the world over seems to bring out the worst in people, however the motorists on Mallorca have been pretty good. The roads are often narrow with no shoulder as was the case as I headed through Portales Nous where I stopped for breakfast toast and eggs at a restaurant named for Fred Flintstone. As I pedaled past the resort communities of Palmanova and Magaluf I came upon a pedestrian/bikeway. Sometimes the road is faster but in this case I found them quite welcome. A few hills made me work harder and I enjoyed some great views of houses built on the side of cliffs with severe drop-offs into the sea. I followed the bike route to Santa Ponca. Wooden bike route signs gave mileage (actually kilometers) to the next town, At places I found a map mounted on a kiosk showing bike routes both on and off road around the island. I saw a visitor information center in Santa Ponca and went in to see if I could get one of those maps. The woman was very helpful and gave me an old version of the map and several other local maps.

The separate trail ended at Santa Ponca and, I took the road through a series of traffic circles toward Calvia. I crossed over a motorway and after a while a wooden sign directed me to the right down a one-lane paved road. At one point I saw a mountain village to my left lit up by the sun as if it were a celestial spotlight. The pavement ran out and I was glad to be on a mountain bike as I rode though groves of trees maybe carob maybe almond. At one point I stopped to look at a herd of sheep and heard only dozens of bells on the sheep, the bleats of young lambs and maybe some wind. In Calvia I got some juice and bread in a market and took a break in a park with a intriguing history of the city on a mural on the wall. I continued on over a significant climb made manageable by a series of switchbacks that kept the grade moderate. After having the road to myself I hit city traffic for a few miles back to the city. I rode 48 miles that first day and saw many riders on road bikes and mountain bikes.

The Second Full Day

More about Will Wattles... Will truly enjoys bicycle touring. Over the last decade, he's toured places such as Greece, Costa Rica, Malta, Chile and Venezuela. For more stories and photos from Will's previous bike trips, visit WillBike.com.

Labels: bike-tour, Mallorca, Montague-MX