Day 11 - Peninsular de Formentor
by Will Wattles

Kept up to 4 a.m. by drinkers celebrating Christmas while the hotel owner was on Holiday in England, I didn't drag myself out of bed until nine Christmas day. By then blue sky ran from horizon to horizon and stayed that way all day. I couldn't have asked for a prettier day to bicycle the formidable Formentor peninsular.

I climbed the long scar across the cliff face that is visible from all over Port de Pollenca. After 2-3 miles of relentless climbing I got to a wonderful viewing area with impressive views of the town behind me and the tortuous landscape of the peninsular in front. Books say it is only a 25 mile ride but will seem like more and, I'll agree. The first thing that happened as I continued out the peninsular is that the road dropped directly back to sea level. So I had that big climb to look forward to. Then the road started climbing again as I pedaled through a thick forest of conifers in marked contrast to the stark rock faces up above.

The road went up and down in a gorgeous tour of the unspoiled land with steep mountains, sheer cliffs and isolated coves. At one point the road approached a sheer drop off and a tunnel appeared. I was glad to have good flashing lights as I heard a car approach from behind. Traffic was light on the way out and moderate on the way back. Despite the narrow winding road it felt safe to ride because the cars travel slowly due to the laws of physics.

As I worked to climb yet another series of curves I wondered if I would have enough water. I had thoughts of a 25 mile ride but this involved more exertion than normal and there would be no stores or restaurants. I even considered cutting it short but the lure of the road was too strong.

Finally, I looked down at the stark promontory approached by winding roads and holding a bleached lighthouse. I coasted down to the beginning of the last climb up to the lighthouse. Paths led down sheer cliffs to the sea far below. I would have to skip those as I had my challenge just to make it back for lunch.

I had an apple and bread and got a fellow to take my picture over looking one of the coves. The ride back went fine as I conserved my water until the start of the big climb and ground it out without incidence. There's a natural high that comes with conquering something challenging and I felt great as I coasted down the long scar back into town.

After lunch and a rest I pedaled over to Pollenca to see the Roman bridge: not much to look at but very old. Up the hill from it I climbed to Puig de Calvari, a hill cherished by the locals for its stations of the cross along the road and a huge long stairway that runs from the city to the little chapel that holds a thirteenth century icon. I enjoyed the outstanding view of Pollenca, Port de Pollenca, the mountains on the Peninsular de Alcudia and the beginning of Formentor with its highly visible road running across the ridge. I finished the day out riding along the bay watching the sun set over a scene one dreams about.

Mileage for the day: 42
Total trip miles: 375

Delightful Mallorca Bike Tour

More about Will Wattles... Will truly enjoys bicycle touring. Over the last decade, he's toured places such as Greece, Costa Rica, Malta, Chile and Venezuela. For more stories and photos from Will's previous bike trips, visit WillBike.com.

Labels: Mallorca-bike-tour, Montague-MX-folding-bike